Malcolm Smith (climber)
Personal information | |
---|---|
Nationality | British |
Born |
1973 (age 42–43) Dunbar, Scotland |
Height | 178 cm (5 ft 10 in)[1] |
Climbing career | |
Type of climber | Sport climbing, bouldering |
Highest grade |
|
Updated on May 2014. |
Malcolm Smith (born 1973) is an elite rock climber born in Dunbar, Scotland.[1] He is the brother of Scottish Visual Artist Sandy Smith.
Climbing since 1988, he has developed an impressive list of repeated hard climbs, notably repeating Ben Moon's 1990 testpiece Hubble at Raven Tor aged only 18.[1] Smith is particularly known for his commitment to tough training regimes and for his focus on bouldering. He is one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated the classic Dreamtime at Cresciano, and has also made first ascents of boulder problems up to Font 8B+ such as Monk Life in Northumberland[2] and Pilgrimage at Parisella's Cave in North Wales.[3]
Smith has also competed internationally and is sponsored by Scarpa and Moon Climbing.
In 2014, Smith and The Climbing Academy released a range of climbing holds under the brand Stonesmith Holds.[4]
Films
Smith's training techniques were the subject of the black and white short film Splinter by Slackjaw Films.[5] This was originally included as a free extra on their DVD "Blood, Sweat and Bagels", but has since come to be regarded as a classic climbing short in its own right.
References
- 1 2 3 "FreakClimbing.com - Interview with Malcolm Smith". FreakClimbing.com.
- ↑ "Nigel Callender repeats Monk Life - Font 8B+". UKClimbing.com.
- ↑ "Smith Does 5.14+ Traverse - Climbing.com". Climbing.com.
- ↑ "UKC Gear - Stonesmith Holds". UKClimbing.com.
- ↑ "Splinter by Slackjaw". Slackjaw.
External links
- IFSC Profile
- "CLIMBING: World finals mark a high.(Sport)". Daily Record (Glasgow, Scotland). November 12, 2003. Retrieved 2008-07-18.