Mixed climbing
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Rich Purnell mixed-climbing a route rated M9. |
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Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools.[1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built in crampons. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" unto itself.
Grading
Roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the WI system. Comparing these is rough and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.
Rating | YDS | WI | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
M4 | 5.8 | WI4 | slabby to vertical, some technical drytooling |
M5 | 5.9 | WI5 | some sections of sustained drytooling |
M6 | 5.10 | WI6 | vertical to overhanging with some difficult drytooling |
M7 | 5.11 | WI7 | overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, less than 10 metres (33 ft) of "hard" climbing |
M8 | 5.11+ | bouldery or longer cruxes than M7, some horizontal overhangs | |
M9 | 5.12- | vertical or steeper with sustained marginal or highly technical drytooling; or horizontal and juggy for up to a few body lengths. | |
M10 | 5.12 | ||
M11 | 5.12+ | ||
M12 | 5.13- |
References
- ↑ Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.
- ↑ Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2003-09). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9. Check date values in:
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