Patola Sari

'Patola' (ritual heirloom cloth) from Gujarat, India, late 18th or early 19th century

Patola are a double ikat woven sari, usually made from silk,^[1] made in Patan, Gujarat, India.^[2] The word patola is the plural form; the singular is patolu.^[3] They are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and aristocratic families. These saris are popular among those who can afford the high prices.^[4][5] Velvet patola styles are also made in Surat. Patola-weaving is a closely guarded family tradition. There are three families in Patan that weave these highly prized double ikat saris. It is said that this technique is taught to no one in the family, but only to the sons. It can take six months to one year to make one sari due to the long process of dyeing each strand separately before weaving them together.

The weave

A loom using to weave Patolas in Patan

To create a patola sari, both the warp and weft threads are wrapped to resist the dye according to the desired pattern of the final woven fabric. This tying is repeated for each colour that is to be included in the finished cloth. The technique of dyeing the warp and weft before weaving is called double ikat. The bundles of thread are strategically knotted before dyeing.

Patola saris from Patan are renowned for their colorful diversity and geometrical style.

Royal history

Patola has a royal history. Silk weavers of the salvi caste from the states of Karnataka and Maharashtra chose Gujarat as the home for their renowned patola fabric. It is believed that salvis went to Gujarat in the 12th century with the intention of acquiring the patronage of the Solanki Rajputs, who ruled all of Gujarat and parts of Malva and south Rajasthan at the time, with Anahiwad Patan as the capital. Legend says that over 700 patola weavers came to the palace of Raja Kumarpal.^[6] The ruler used to dress in patola silk himself on special occasions.

After the decline of the Solanki empire, the salvis founded a rich trade in Gujarat. Patola saris quickly became a sign of social status among Gujarati women and girls, especially as part of stridhan, items that a woman can claim as her own property within a marital household.

Design and pattern

There are four distinct patterns which are woven primarily in Gujarat by the salvi community. In Jain and Hindu communities, double ikat saris with entire designs of parrots, flowers, elephants, and dancing figures are generally used. In Muslim communities, saris with geometric designs and flower patterns are typical, being worn mostly for weddings and other special occasions. Maharashtrian Brahmins wear saris woven with plain, dark colored borders and body, and a bird design called Nari Kunj.

References